De Nichare al salto Pará
Cómo llegar. Desde la comu nidad yekuana de Nichare Âa orillas del Caura y donde nos quedamos el domingo pasado habrá que navegar entre tres y cuatro horas remontando la corriente para llegar al Playón. Desde aquí, sólo caminando por un sendero de selva es posible ascender hasta el salto Pará, para entender con claridad por qué se habla de alto y bajo Caura. Trayecto de río hasta El Playón. Es verdad que el río Caura es navegable todo el año, pero son dos universos opuestos, según la temporada. En sequía las playas se extienden por las orillas, las piedras aparecen y la travesía se hace mucho más complicada, pero es una ricura acampar bajo la luna con sólo clavar dos palitos en la arena y guindar un chinchorro. En estos meses de lluvia sube el nivel del agua, la navegación representa menos riesgos y el caudal del salto lo convierte en un espectáculo sobrecogedor. La primera vez que llega mos al Playón fue hace como 10 años. Había si acaso una churuata y pocos aventureros se atrevían por esos parajes. Regresamos en 2002, me sorprendieron las 6 churuatas construidas por los yekuanas para recibir la visita, unos baños con pocetas, una gran churuata de comedor y la gentil comunidad indígena dispuesta a atender a los viajeros, servir de...
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